September 7, 2015
Food historian Denker has compiled a fascinating collection of short essays on the history of many common fruits, vegetables, and spices in an effort to get readers to appreciate the fullness of these histories. He delves into each item’s historical importance, which cultures adopted it first, how it traveled, and what it was used for—including medicinal and ritualistic uses, in addition to food. For example, he discusses how the tomato was cultivated and sold in the U.S. by such entrepreneurs as Giuseppe Uddo, an Italian immigrant from New Orleans who founded Progresso Foods, and Hector Boiardi, who emigrated to Ohio from Italy and found a way in the 1920s to can and sell prepared pasta and sauce, which became popular under the Chef Boyardee brand. Denker urges readers to appreciate the history of food, and he brings enthusiasm and interest to the topic. The anecdotes are accessible and enjoyable, and he debunks popular misconceptions of how foods have achieved their present form.
September 15, 2015
Have you ever wondered where baby carrots come from? Denker (The World on a Plate) has the answer. Along with the secret origin of those vegetables, the author shares the backstories of 49 other foods in short essays aimed at a general audience. Readers will learn that asparagus is related to leeks and that the Mafia cornered the artichoke market in the 1920s, along with which herb is said to smell like a squashed bedbug (coriander) and what nut was known as Jupiter's acorn (walnut). The essays delve into word origins, health properties (both proven and purported), preparation styles, and modern uses. Quite a few of the herbs and spices have been at different times encouraged and forbidden owing to reputations for inciting lust or aiding in fertility. A botanical illustration accompanies each entry. Although the bibliography is extensive, the brevity of individual essays makes this work better for browsers than scholars. VERDICT A diverting source for food tidbits and conversation openers.--Maggie Knapp, Trinity Valley Sch., Fort Worth, TX
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